Detour to Ashtabula

July 30-31, 2012 Monday-Tuesday


Departed from Cleveland, Ohio at 0850 hrs. heading to Geneva on the Lake with an ETA of 1700 hr.  We were looking forward to this stop because it is a State Park and a new facility.  Terry called ahead to check channel depth and we were assured we could get in but to stay on the east side of the channel as we enter.  It looked pretty shallow by water color and Terry approached the channel cautiously at about a third of a kt., thankfully. "Chasseur's" keel found the bottom and had NO desire to try another approach.  Terry backed off the sand and went with our alternate (deep water) port.  We backed out of the channel, and put to sea again to press on ahead with wind direction and waves on the nose. We continued east on Lake Erie to a very deep industrial port called Ashtabula (another 10nm). This harbor is an industrial port city, and not recreational in character (refreshing). We had to go under a 100 foot clearance conveyor belt.  The bridge we had to have opened for us was further up the river.  It was a bascule bridge (french for drawbridge).  It has a giant weight on one end that raises the other end of the bridge, just enough to pass through on one side.  We tied up to the wall of the Ashtabula Yacht Club.
 The Yacht club was very clean and well cared for.  Everyone at the club were very friendly and helpful.  The caretaker, Brad, loaned us his van to go grocery shopping and for a long overdue haircut for Suzanne. Ashtabula has made an effort to develop a restaurant and shopping district with a nautical flair, and beautiful hanging flowers everywhere.
We  met a couple from Canada, Dick and Ruth Foster, who did the trip to the Bahamas on their 33 ft Erickson.  They quit their jobs and took off for 10 months.  They had some great advise.

"There are destinations, beyond destinations, and so the confirmed sailor goes on tacking forever."  Richard Bode

Ashtabula Channel Entrance

100 feet Clearance Conveyor 

Ashtabula Bascule Bridge

Ashtabula River Town

Remnants of an old industrial port (we are sure there is a story here)

On to Cleveland, Ohio

July 28 - 29, 2012 Saturday and Sunday


We spent the weekend (our last 2 days in Put-In-Bay [PIB]), quiet on the mooring, staying away from downtown as much as possible.  Weekends in PIB are crazy.  This weekend was worse than most because it is their "Christmas in July" weekend.  It really is a mad house.  We equate it to New Orleans during Mardi Gras.  Terry called it "Sodom and Gomorrah" (it paints a picture doesn't it?)  Our last day In PIB we packed a picnic dinner and bottle of wine and went to a quiet state park on the other end of the island, away from the town's action.  It really is beautiful when you get out of town.
We stayed in PIB longer than we wanted due to weather.  Some of the storms that came through were quite severe.  At times it felt like the boat was being lifted our of the water and whisked away.  The storms did not last long.
To make up for travel days lost, we planned our next transit all the way to Cleveland, Ohio, 57 nm.  We departed Sunday at 0600 hrs. and arrived at Lakeside Yacht Club at 1600 hrs.  The yacht club is in Cleveland's East Basin, NOT close to downtown.  Weather permitting, we will proceed further along Lake Erie Monday to Geneva on the Lake State Park Marina, 40 nm.
This will be a good weather week to keep "Chasseur" moving.  We are half way to New York City.  We started our journey June 22, 2012, however our total actual days underway has only been 15 days.  We spent extended stays in Beaver island, MI., St. Clair Shores, MI. and Put-In-Bay.  We now have the "itch" to pick up the pace.  We want a a little extra time in New York, Annapolis, Chesapeake, Carolinas and Savannah.  We wonder how much "weather" will be affecting us as we go.  Hurricane season continues through November.

"In sailing, as in life, momentum is a valued commodity, the secondary source of power that keeps us going long after the original source has disappeared." Richard Bode

PIB Main Street, Golf Cart Traffic Jam

"Counter" Key West

Cannon Shot Reenactment in front of Perry Monument

View from State Park Dinner Picnic in PIB

More Picnic Views

Gibraltar Island view from PIB State Park

Sunrise Leaving Put-In Bay

Sailing past Cleveland Skyline

Water Intake Crib in front of City of Cleveland

Days in Put-In-Bay

July 25 -27, 2012 Wednesday - Friday


We are having such a great time in Put-in-Bay, we feel like honeymooners. There is so much to do, and the American History in this place is significant. 
This is the port in which "the Battle of Lake Erie" was fought during the War of 1812.  We are moored in the harbor, Put-In-Bay, the launching point for Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry's battle and victory over the British fleet.  Long story short, Perry abandoned his diabled U.S. brig "Lawrence" after two hours of fighting, removed the ship's battle flag and boarded it's sister ship the brig "Niagara".  He resumed the fight, and in a span of fifteen minutes forced a British surrender, and raised the now famous ship's flag that said "DON'T GIVE UP THE SHIP".   On September 10, 1813  at the end of this dramatic naval battle, Perry scrawled these memorable words on the back of an envelope and sent them to Maj. General William Henry Harrison:  "We have met the enemy and they are ours..."
Also in this port is Perry's Victory and International Peace Memorial.  The memorial is 352 feet high and is the largest all outdoors memorial at the top.   It was built between 1912 and 1915.  We went to the top for some spectacular views.  We had an additional experience of the "Niagara" coming to port under full sail with a cannon shot arrival salute.  We read that this ship is NOT a replica but the actual "Niagara" rebuilt and restored. 
Transportation on this island is mostly by golf carts.  It's like a bumper car ride on steroids.  Just watching has been hysterical.  We rented ours for two days to get around and to get our dingy motor to a repair man.  We found an outboard motor mechanic, John Dodge, here on the island and strapped the motor on the back of the golf cart.  It looked like it was an amphibious vehicle.  People on the street were laughing and pointing as we drove through town.  
It is better to be on a  mooring here.  The marinas are beyond full, especially on weekends, with  mandatory rafting.  We have seen up to five boats deep.  There is a water taxi that will pick you up and return you to your boat, 8:00 a.m. to midnight.  The taxi assistants are very good at approaching your boat.
The island has a long history of wine making.  We went to the Heineman winery for happy hour. It's $2.00 for a glass of wine and you can purchase a  cheese and cracker plate and enjoy it in their garden, which we did.  It had been a hot day and we enjoyed our cold (famous here) "Pink Catawba" wine.  There are stories surrounding this "Pink Catawba" and, of course, we have one too.  Suzanne does not drink often and after two glasses of wine she was feeling pretty good.  We left to the parking lot of the winery and Suzanne could not find our golf cart.  Terry accused her of pranking him and suggested she may have had too much to drink.  After a careful perusal of the carts in the parking lot Terry finally agreed that our cart was missing.  There was one cart that was identical to ours from the same company but it had different number on it.  We laughed hysterically.  Why???  Because Terry had been locking the cart all day.  Suzanne had been teasing him about locking it, "Where can a thief take a stolen golf cart on an island?" It turns out that all of the golf cart keys are interchangeable. So this was the one time that Terry decided not to lock the cart.  Suzanne had requested a company business card with a phone number from the rental  attendant in case we had a problem.  The attendant had laughed at her..."you won't have any problems". Hah, Hah, we called the company and they tracked down the thieves.  There was a cart exchange soon after.  "The Great Golf Cart  Robbery" was solved.  We did enjoy another happy hour at Heineman's with mechanic and Renaissance Man, John and girlfriend Bridget.   The golf cart was locked this time!


    " Sailor's joys are as simple as a child's."  Bernard Moitesssier

Perry's Victory Monument

"Niagara" comes to port with cannon arrival salute

Rigging Monkeys on the mast

Just before the golf cart heist

Top of the monument

John Dodge and Bridget at Heineman's Winery

Just 2315 nm to go!

Put-In-Bay Arrival

July 24, 2012 Tuesday


Go, don't go, go,don't go...this is our dance deciding upon a departure.  It starts with checking weather reports before bed, getting up early for weather updates and then "well what do you think?"  We want to get to Put-In-Bay today.  It is 70 nm and we estimate 12-13 hours.  There is no place to "tuck in" along the way with our 6.5 draft.  So when we decide to leave we are committed.  Lake Erie open water forecast is Northeast 10-15 kts with 1-3 foot waves-increasing to 20 kts and 2-4 foot waves late in the day.  If we leave early we can get there before all h---- breaks loose.  We decided to go.
It was great fun navigating the Detroit River and sailing past downtown and the Renaissance Center.  The river current gave us and additional 1.5-2 kts while motor sailing.  We reached Lake Erie before we knew it.  Once we finished the shipping channel we were able to sail nicely at 6 kts.  It seemed like out of nowhere those "late in the day" predicted winds and waves hit us, except they were 25+ kts and waves were 3-5 with occasional 6 feet coming over our bow and cabin top.  The main sail was already reefed and we had favorable wind direction.  "Chasseur" enjoyed her frisky sail.  Thankfully it was only "frisky" for the last 1.5 -2 hours of this transit.
There is a lot of protection in South Bass Island's Put-In-Bay Harbor except when the wind and seas come from the Northeast.  When we made port the wind (out of the Northeast!) was 25+ kts and the waves were still 4-6 feet. for our approach.  Getting to the gas dock for diesel and slip assignment was impossible.  We quickly decided to grab a mooring ball, not an easy task either.  The boat hook we dropped overboard, was safely retrieved by the water taxi attendant.
During the night "Chasseur" (and her crew) were tossed about on the mooring like a child's bathtub toy as the wind whistled through the rigging.  Believe it or not we slept like babies!
Our arrival in Put-in-Bay, marks our third Great Lake, Lake Erie.  Our cumulative distance achieved to date is 610 nautical miles. (about one half way to New York)

Belle Isle Lighthouse-Detroit River

Belle Isle Bridge-Detroit River

Detroit Skyline-Renaissance Center

Detroit River Renaissance Center- Up close and personal

Approaching the "Ambassador Bridge" US to Canada over the Detroit River

Detroit River Lighthouse as we leave the river and enter Lake Erie



"Only he who keeps his eye fixed on the far horizon will find his right road."  
Dag Hammarskjold

Underway for Put-In Bay

July 24, 2012 Tuesday


We are underway for Put-In Bay, Ohio.  There is a favorable forecast except for building seas 2-4 feet late in the day.  This will be a 12 - 13 hour transit.  Wish us luck.  Stay tuned.

Still in St. Clair Shores

July 23, 2012 Monday


We have been in St. Clair Shores since July 15, it has been a nice connection with friends and family.  We planned to go to Put-In Bay, OH today, but had forecasts for Southwest winds at 10-20 kts, gusts higher.  These are not good conditions for navigating down the Detroit River, so now we wait.  It has been a valuable wait however, as we gather "local knowledge" regarding Lake Erie and the Erie Canal.
Two other cruising couples have taken slips here.  Both are heading "south".  One couple, Dale and Patty Bensted on S/V  "Nautical Dreamer" are from Holland.  The other couple, Tom and Laura Eschbaugh on S/V "Cool Hand", are from our home port in Muskegon.  We met Tom and Laura at Torresen Marina when we were both having work done on our boats in preparation for our journey.
Jefferson Beach Marina is a bit of a culture shock for sailing cruisers.  There are two diner/dance clubs located here, one on each end of the marina.  This has been one hoppin' place.  Last night the multicolored lasers from one of the clubs were bouncing off the sailboat masts.  Music filled the harbor.
We will be here until favorable winds and conditions. It may be a long wait for us because of the long transit to Put-in Bay, and poor protection in the South Bass Island Harbor.

"You can't build a reputation on what you are going to do."  Henry Ford

"Our Story" Part I

July 18, 2012 Wednesday


This is a good time to enter "Our Story" while we are in port visiting family and friends....

Our story....the kids are gone, the dog is dead, the house is sold.

We are not unlike other people.  We finished college, went to work, married and raised a family.  As we became older things began to change.  The kids grew up and moved away.  Our family dog died.  We were living in a house far too big for two people that was filled with "stuff ".  Maintaining it was no longer giving us joy.  Our bodies were changing.  A few illnesses, aches and pains indicated that we were moving further along life's timeline.  We were at an age where we had become "high timers" in our workplaces, less attractive to employers in this economy.  One of us was laid off with a merger and the other was offered incentives to retire. 
We began to watch too much television in what was once our son's bedroom, now furnished with matching recliners and a 42 inch flat screen HD TV.  Not yet 60 years old we turned to each other and asked "what are we doing?"
We would like to be able to say that we became "live aboards" through careful planning and research, but that was not the case.  We returned home after a month in Florida.  The weather in Michigan was cold, wet, and gloomy.  I turned to Terry and said "get me out of here, let's sell the house!"  We assumed that this would take awhile with the depressed housing market.  During a serendipitous walk on the beach, the very day of my proclamation, Terry returned home with a buyer.  The house was sold in 48 hours.  From that day forward events leading up to our new lifestyle "snow balled".

We had been sailing as a couple for eighteen years, and the captain (Terry) for most of his life.  We had sailed and cruised most of Lake Michigan during those years.  Our times on the water had always been among our happiest.  Sailors always have dreams.  We often talked like others, "chucking it all and sailing away".  Like most, that is all they ever are, "dreams".  With the house sold we were at a "Fork in the Road".   We looked at each other and said "Let's buy a bigger boat and sail away.  We can do it!"  This was our opportunity to  "LIVE THE DREAM".  
 End Part I

"When you come to a fork in the road, take it."  Yogi Berra

Planning the Lake Erie Transit

Port Huron to St. Clair Shores

July 15, 2012 Sunday


We survived a wall tie up on Port Huron's Black River (crazy boat traffic), without injury to "Chasseur".  We are posting a video and photo of our favorite boat entry in the Port Huron parade of lighted boats...and yes it really is a boat.
"Chasseur" set sail for St Clair Shores @ 0845.  We stayed in the shipping channel of St. Clair River and Lake St. Clair the whole way to avoid the shallows.  We have enjoyed all the ships we have encountered.
True to Lake St. Clair we were hit by two squalls.  They come up on you fast and furious and then quickly go away.  Our canvas kept us dry and surprisingly it was fun to plow through them.  We giggled at the motor boaters who thought they could out run them.
We arrived at Jefferson Beach Marina @ 1515.    The St. Clair River current pushed us along (boat speed was 5 kts but the speed over ground was 8.8 kts).
Suzanne lived in St. Clair Shores the first 10 years of her life.  This is very familiar territory.  The "old" house is only a few blocks from here.
Mom and Dad LaRaia, sister Ann and husband Don picked us up for dinner.  Then we were whisked off to Mom and Dad's house in Clinton Township, Michigan to stay and keep us out of the 100 degree heat for the first part of the week.  We will be in port for one week to visit friends and family.
This is a boating mecca and everything a boater needs is here, so we are going to take care of some sailboat "business" while we are here.
We also need the time to plan the next part of our trip - Lake Erie and Erie Canal.  
Accumulated nautical miles for our journey is now over 540 , underway for 3 weeks.

Lighted boat parade

Ships on St. Clair River

Storms on Lake St. Clair

Mom and Dad LaRaia

Lexington, Michigan to Port Huron, Michigan

July 13  -14, 2012 Friday and Saturday

There really isn't an anchorage in Lexington.  We chose to anchor on the north side of the break wall (on the open waters of Lake Huron).  Of course anchoring doesn't always go as one plans.  After a couple of hours on the hook, the winds come up and gusting 15 -20 kts.  The waves continued to increase to 2-3 feet.  Our choice was to either "ride it out", sail back to Port Sanilac, or weigh anchor and put "Chasseur" to sea. We decided to ride it out.  Surely the wind and waves would come down as the night progressed. The wind and waves settled enough to allow us to dingy into port for dinner with Steve and Pam.  On our dingy ride back to "Chasseur"  we were plastered with tiny bugs of some kind, in our mouths, in our ears and eyes..yuck!  We slept at anchor with 1 foot rollers...not as comfortable as you would think.   The Great Lakes can be very violent and the waves, even when they are not high have a shorter distance between them and make for uncomfortable travel.
We pulled up anchor at 0715 and headed to Port Huron.  We dropped the hook just west of the shipping channel and waited for the Huron to Mackinaw race to start.  Steve and Pam were anchored next to us on "Fran Sea".  It was great fun.  The racers were everywhere, hundreds it seemed and many sailed right past our anchor.
We thought it would be easy to get a slip in Port Huron after the race got under way but that was not the case.  They are continuing with a "Blue Water Fest" for the weekend.  At the last minute we decided to call the Port Huron Yacht Club to see if we could reciprocate and as luck would have it the gave us a wall slip for free!!  There has been non stop boat traffic going up and down the Black River this evening, if we don't get hit by someone it will be a miracle.  There is a lighted parade of boats tonight.  If the photos come out we will edit this blog with them later.
Today marks the conclusion of a safe and successful transit of Lake Michigan and Lake Huron (a total of 495 nautical miles).

"To be at home with the wind is to be at home in the world."  Richard Bode

Huron to Mackinaw race underway with friends Steve and Pam's "Fran Sea" at anchor

More Huron Mac Boats waiting to start

Port Huron Lighthouse

Approaching Blue Water Bridge (US to Canada)

East Tawas to Port Sanilac

July 12 - 13, 2012 Thursday and Friday


We spent one night anchored in East Tawas.  Nice town and port stop.  They take claim to be the only city in Michigan  to be called the "cool city".  We pulled up anchor at 0530 Thursday morning for a very long poke to Port Sanilac 75 to 80 nm (we estimated 15 hrs).  The trip actually took 14 hrs with motor and sails.  It was another great day at sea.  We had lots of freighter traffic for entertainment.  We skipped Harbor Beach because it was too shallow for us.
Lake Huron has been a pleasant experience (so far) for us.  The water color is beautiful, a wonderful shade of blue green.  The ports are nice and clean and friendly.
We met fellow sailors, Steve and Pam Walton on S/V "Fran Sea" in Presque Isle and have been boat buddies from there to Port Sanilac.  We will be traveling to Lexington together but we will have to anchor outside the breakwall for our 6.5 ft draft.  Lexington is a very shallow port.  The anchor forecast for tonight is "quiet".  We will dinghy up to "Fran Sea" for some Lexington night live and dining. We want to be at sea Saturday morning for the Huron to Mackinaw race boats that are leaving Port Huron.  We will either go to Port Huron or maybe go all the way to Mt. Clemons/St. Clair Shores (the weather will help us to decide).  Once there we will  provision, do some engine maintenance and most important visit Suzanne's family that live on that side of the state for a final farewell.

"A sailor without a destination cannot hope for a favorable wind"  Leon Tec M.D.

East Tawas Lighthouse

Sunrise over East Tawas point

Anchored in East Tawas

32 Nautical Miles from Harrisville to East Tawas.

Presque Isle, MI. to Harrisville, MI.

July 10, 2012 Tuesday

It was a quiet departure from Presque Isle shortly after sunrise (0645).  We were underway for an hour and Terry suggested we should take turns napping.  I was just getting comfy down below when I heard Terry shuffling up on deck.  I can't sleep when he is not in the cockpit.  I yelled up to him, "what are you doing!".. a long pause..  if he doesn't answer I worry about "man over board"  ( I often rehearse my actions in case this ever happens).  He finally popped his head through the companionway and said "come up quickly!"   On our port bow were 2 Tall ships ( full sized replicas of the Nina, Pinta ) traveling north.  We were snapping photos like crazy and hope some will come out.  Adding to our excitement were 4 F18 military jets flying noisily overhead.  It was an entertaining morning.
The seas were calm and the sun was shining.  We have been so lucky to have this great weather pattern.  Winds were light from the north.
We have talked about the changes in ourselves, physically and mentally as the days have ticked on.  The aches and pains and "rubber" muscles are now gone.  Some people use stair steppers and physical trainers - living on a sailboat is doing the same for us.  Everything we do is physical training.  Keeping your balance in 2-4 foot waves works all of our muscles.  There is little sitting still living on a boat.  Our bodies have finally adjusted and are more fit then when we started.
Our minds are quieter now.  There are times for planning, chart-plotting,  and weather briefings. These are very focused activities.  It challenges our minds and adds to the anticipation and excitement on our adventure.  Then we get quiet, relaxed and in the moment.  The mindfulness required for this life style has proven to be healthy for us.
Sleeping is best on the water.  We fall asleep now when the sun sets, under stars and shining moon, and soft summer breezes flowing over us.  We wake just before sunrise most day (occasionally we sleep later).  We have slept through a night storm only to learn about it from other sailors the next morning.  We  never slept this deeply in our bed in what was once our "home".

One of the "Big Ships"

We love our lighthouses