Awendaw Creek, SC

November 23, 2012 Friday

We could not make it to Charleston in one day so we dropped anchor in Awendaw Creek.  The creek is in the middle of "low country" in the Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge - quiet and serene, it is considered one of the most beautiful anchorages along the ICW.  The Cape Romain Lighthouse could be seen in the distance.  Most of the anchorages along the ICW have "high current", something we have had to adjust to.  We do not have "all chain" rode, which makes it a little more tricky for us.  The Captain studied his anchorage intently and realized that "Chasseur" was sailing over her anchor rode  with the potential of wrapping around the rudder or keel.  This occurs when a strong wind  is working against a strong current.  His solution was to turn the helm hard to starboard, putting our spade rudder 90 degrees to the keel.  This created a "tide" drag on the boat, eliminating the wind factor and sailing over our rode.  Terry played "To the Colors" at sunset for the crew on "Blue".

"To the Colors" in Awendaw Creek

2260 nautical miles, 1 hurricane, and 3 "nor-easters"
effect on Uncle Don's gift  Ensign, getting a little tattered.

Sunrise in Awendaw Creek

South Carolina

November 21, 2012 Wednesday
Moving our way down the ICW we "crossed over" into South Carolina....finally.  There were 2 inlets from the Atlantic Ocean that we had to prepare for, Lockwood's Foley Inlet and Shallotte Inlet, where shoaling can be severe.  Approaching an inlet is both exciting and disconcerting.  It is amazing to see how close the ICW is to the ocean.  The effects of the wind, tide and current changes an inlet daily- so we never know for sure what we will experience when we get there.  This is "pay attention" cruising.  When we arrived at Dock Holiday's Marina we ran to the grocery store to provision for Thanksgiving.

Lockwood's Foley Inlet, where Atlantic meets the ICW

Shallotte Inlet

November 22, 2012 Thursday, HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
After resting on the bottom at Dock Holiday's slip for the night, we waited for the tide to cooperate for our departure.  As soon as the we had 7.5 feet under our keel we shoved off.  Next stop was an anchorage at Butler Island, but first we needed to complete 44 nm.  Shortly after departing Dock Holidays Marina we approached a narrow dangerous section of the ICW known as the "Rock Pile"(self explanatory), the most concerning is a 4 mile stretch (very narrow, rocky shoals).  We called ahead on the radio for any north bound commercial traffic and we were clear to move on.  Photos give a good navigational perspective.  Yes, we were that close to those rocks!
We arrived at the Butler Island anchorage before sunset.  "Blue" anchored ahead of us preparing for "Chasseur" rafting to her.  Captain Ladd is very experienced at rafting and had everything ready as we approached, in spite of the strong current, it was a smooth landing.  We had planned on rafting at anchor, so we could have Thanksgiving dinner together.  Once we were settled, Denise and Suzanne went to work in their separate galleys.  Food was transferred from "Chasseur's " galley over to "Blue" and the feast began.  We had to substitute  "grocery store-deli rotisserie       chicken", instead of turkey, but we did not feel at all deprived.  We were all grateful to have each others company.  Suzanne brought "Chasseur's"  "Life is Good" book for an after dinner reading.  We took turns reading - here are some of our favorite "simple words from Jake and his trusty dog Rocket" that had particularly meaning to us:

"Not all who wander are lost."

"Everything is a once in a lifetime experience."

"Don't fight Mother Nature."

"Create your own Happy Hour."

"If you don't go,  you don't see."

"Take your sweet time."

"The world is your entertainment center."

"There's no place like ROAM."

"Sometimes nothing is the right thing to do."

We had the best time and Thankful for this day and night.  
We miss our family and Friends!
Happy Thanksgiving!

Rock Pile section of ICW

More Rocks (tight squeeze)

One of many bridges we open along the ICW, "Blue" ahead

"Chasseur" and "Blue" rafted and anchored at Butler Island

Smorgasbord

The Cooks - CHEERS!

"Captains Table"

"Life is Good" Reading

Chipping our way to South Carolina

November 20, 2012 Tuesday 

The day was cloudy and cool but our spirits were bright and warm, it felt so good to shove off again.  Terry said it felt like "Chasseur" was growing a foundation under her after a week in Carolina Beach (he always says this when we stay anywhere more than three days).  It was a short transit to St. James Marina, just south of Southport, NC.  Crossing Cape Fear River was uneventful.  We passed the Army's Military Ocean Terminal on the west side of the river.  We timed it perfectly to be at the marina entrance at high tide (only 7 feet or less at low tide).

Army Military Ocean Terminal, Cape Fear River

A common scene on the ICW, Tow Boat US with boat in tow

ICW Mile Marker 315 and pelican friend,
just outside St. James Marina entrance

Another Storm!

November 17-18, 2012 Saturday - Sunday

The weather reports were identifying the weather we were sitting in as a "Coastal Storm".  For some reason no one called it a "Nor-Easter" , but that is what it really was.  The winds were 25 - 35 kts, gusting up to 44kts.  Persistent and constant, held in place (over us) by a Stationary Front, circulating counterclockwise, this was another huge weather system.  The wind direction was from the northeast.  We watched the radar for 3 long days.  The storm just sat out in the Atlantic from Florida to North Carolina, not quite coming to shore - whipping up the wind.  When it finally hit the coast we had torrential rain and wind with dramatic tides and currents.  We preferred to stay put in Carolina Beach to ride out this storm.  Carolina Beach was hit hard, receiving nearly 4 inches of rain!  This Atlantic Brut sat right on top of us for several days. Chasseur bounced like crazy in her slip, but we remained undamaged yet a bit "stir crazy" throughout the duration.  Life on a boat.....

The Mona Black marina members were very friendly with offers of transportation and food.  We joined them for a barbecue Saturday night.  We  loved experiencing genuine North Carolina hospitality, food and drink.  One local favorite we will not forget - homemade apple pie moonshine with warm apple cider.  This was the most incredible and "dangerous" libation - it tasted just like apple pie, so good!!!
The weather forecast is for clearing and warmer days starting Tuesday and we will be on our way.

Carolina Beach, NC on a sunny day

Carolina Beach, NC

November 12 - 14, 2012 Monday - Thursday

Here we go again....it was another early morning departure.  We knew we had our work cut out for us.  There were many potential shoal areas ahead, and the warnings were right on.  This was a grueling transit for the Captains on  " Chasseur", "Blue" and "Shin Dera".  There were many "inlets" on this stretch of the ICW.  Every "inlet " from the Atlantic Ocean has shoaling into the channel.  If you are lucky to reach them at high tide it usually is not a problem.  "Blue" and "Chasseur" have 6 + foot drafts, "Shin Dera" has a 5 foot draft.  At one inlet "Blue" touched bottom and kept going.  "Chasseur" followed shortly after, touched bottom but continued through.  "Shin Dera" approached the same inlet and BOOM - hard aground.  Martin and Bridget had to wait for high tide to get free for several hours.  There was no helping them with an out going tide.  It was another day of radio chatter and radio calls for "Tow Boat U.S."
Terry took a break below decks and gave Suzanne the helm. The ICW widened and there were no inlets for a while.  "Blue" appeared to be slowing down.  Suzanne focused on the depth sounder......10 feet.....9 feet....."7 feet" she yelled down to Terry and throttled down - Terry was up on deck in a flash.  Once again we made it through without a grounding.  This was a repeated scenario through out the day.  Everyone was exhausted when we finally reached Carolina Beach.  Terry said crossing inlets on the ICW at low tide is like playing a game of Dodge ball - once you are aground "you're out".
Another storm weather pattern is running up the coast, with 20 -25 kts of wind, rain and back to being cold.  We have decided to wait it out in Carolina Beach.  This would be a great vacation spot- in season.  We are experiencing unseasonably low temperatures (again), and are back to wearing jackets, foul weather gear, and hats.  We cannot wait to get further south to warmer temperatures, and finally on to Marathon...still a long way to go.
(Lost the beach photos, will try again later)

A more common site along the way

Aground and deserted, just a few feet away from the middle of the ICW

Hanging around town, Carolina Beach, just not ready for this...

Making Way

November 9 - 11, 2012 Friday - Sunday

Rejoice!!  We are on the move again.  S/V "Blue" and "Chasseur" decided on a short trip to RE Mayo Fish Company docks to break up the miles that we needed to cover for the next two days.  It was another chilly passage.  Suzanne bought "toe warmers" to put in our shoes back in Dowry Creek and what a blessing they were - no complaints of cold toes this transit.  RE Mayo Fish Company is a working fish dock, but they let transients tie up for very little money - a bit stinky but because it was so cold the odor was low. We bought a pound of fresh, "headed" shrimp and prepared them for cocktail hour - sooo good.  We also purchased scallops and the crew of "Blue" and "Chasseur" had a delightful dinner together.
A third boat came to the dock this afternoon and stopped by to say hello.  They bought their boat in Muskegon a few years ago from the same marina (Torreson's Marine) where we bought ours.  They are an English couple, Martin and Bridget Green on S/V "Shin Dera" and their dog "Eddie".  We exchanged cruising cards and Suzanne recognized the card instantly.  Terry had met them in Muskegon this summer at the West Marine store.  Here we were, 2000 nm later, meeting again.
We could not reach the power on the docks and we were expecting temperatures in the 30's.  It was time to use that new generator to power our heater.  Terry set the generator up in the stern of the cockpit with canvas all open.  It did not take long before our carbon monoxide alarm went off inside the boat.  At first we thought it was the battery, but it would not stop alarming after a battery change.  The generator was moved to amidships on deck by the standing rigging and all was well.
Saturday we departed RE Mayo and headed to Morehead City, NC.  S/V "Shin Dera" had joined "Blue and "Chasseur" on this trip.  It was a sunny, warmer day which lifted the crew's spirits  We arrived early enough to give "Chasseur" a bath - she smiled afterwards.  We ended the day with a great meal at "Floyd's 1921" restaurant.
Sunday was the warmest day we had experienced since Norfolk, VA. (before the hurricane), back to wearing tee shirts!  This part of the the ICW was beautiful, lots of palm trees, sandy shores and dolphins.  S/V "Blue" led the way as we had many warnings of shoaling for this part of the trip and she had experience navigating these waters.  Earlier in the day we heard 3 separate calls to "Tow Boat US" over the VHF radio for boats that has run aground ahead of us.  We did experience some very shallow areas.  After "Blue" touched bottom she "sounded"  for us, and the 5 other sailboats behind her through it all safely.  THANK YOU "Blue"!!!
We set anchor in Mile Hammock Bay at Camp Lejeune.  This anchorage is in the middle of the U.S. Marine military base.  We called ahead to determine if there would be any military (Live Fire) activity, and were told that anchoring would be allowed.  There have been reports of vessels being ordered to leave by the Marines due to maneuvers.  It can happen anytime, day or night without advance announcement.  When we arrived there were 2 sailboats, before the end of the day there were 18 boats with lots of room.  It was a beautiful quiet anchorage.

RE Mayo Fish Company, half the fleet.

Enjoying shrimp fresh off the boat,  Ladd, Denise and Terry, yummmm

Mile Hammock Bay, Camp Lejeune

Boats following "Blue" through the ICW

Mile Hammock Bay anchorage

From our anchorage

Alligator River to Dowry Creek, NC

November 5 - 8, 2012 Monday - Thursday

Sunshine was promised for the trip down the Alligator River.  The River was filled with boats rushing to their next port to shelter from the next "nor-easter" coming our way.  Our mornings have been cold.  The Captain and crew have lost their sense of humor with chilly travel.  The "nor-easter" is going be colder yet.
We moved along the Alligator River watching everyone hustle past our 5 kt "Chasseur", new friends Ladd and Denise Caine on S/V "Blue" were willing to hang back with us.  Over the VHF radio we heard sailors talking about black bears on the shore.  They gave specific land marks.  Suzanne rushed to get her camera and waited.  Soon we approached the landmarks and there they were, a couple of bears sitting in the sun (see photo).  A couple of nights later at a sailors social gathering in the marina clubhouse, everyone was talking with excitement about seeing the bears.  Suzanne had her computer with her and pulled the bear photo up.  Terry enlarged the photo to pass around for viewing.  The room erupted in laughter as we realized that the bears were not bears at all - they were black, burnt logs in a campfire.  We still laugh every time we think about it.
We have been in Dowry Creek for 3 nights at this writing, waiting for the wind to come down and for a little warmer temperatures.  We woke to 36 degrees Thursday morning.  All the sailors here are frustrated, not only is it cold but no one has phone service and the internet is marginal.  We take turns using the marina car to get to town....not much there.  We are pretty isolated.
Friday will bring a gradual warming with temperatures getting back to normal by Monday, 70 degrees!!!!!!!

"How 'bout dem bears?" Enlarge for a chuckle

Blue boat on right hard a ground, another sailor pulling her off.
Need to pay close attention to depth finder in narrow river.

No this is not snow, although it is cold enough . This is close up of cotton field in Belhaven, NC 

Morning in Dowry Creek

Coinjock to Alligator River, NC

November 4,  2012 Sunday

We arrived in Coinock, NC early afternoon Sunday.  Larry and Rose Ray on S/V "IRAZU" were there when we arrived.  Larry and Rose were our companions in Norfolk when visited the Chrysler Art Museum.  We were hoping to see them again as we moved south.  Larry broke the news to us that Coinjock was as far as they were going, that they were heading back home to Maryland on Monday.  Mickey, their dog, was complicating travel.  We were sad to part ways.

Coinjock, NC is a staging port for crossing the potentially notorious Albermarle Sound.  We had a good forecast for the crossing with a chance of rain.  Wind direction and waves were in our favor and pushed us along nicely for part of the day.  As we moved down the North Carolina Cut , ICW, were were surprised to see cypress trees.  The marsh was beautiful in the morning.
The "chance of rain" forecast turned into "rain" shortly after entering Albermarle Sound.  The 5-10 kts wind predication did not hold true as well.  We had gusts 15 - 20 and we made our turn toward the Alligator River Marina the waves were rolling us about.  Yes the Alligator River does have alligators, we did not see any.

Larry and Rose Ray, and Mickey, Sad to see your go :(

Scenes along the marsh

Cypress trees

Great Bridge, Virginia

November 1-2, 2012 Thursday and Friday

The news reports and photos of "Sandy's" destruction leaves us humbled and feelings of gratitude.  We were very lucky.  We are also filled with sadness for all the places we have traveled that have been destroyed.  It is ironic - several places that we had found refuge from storms on this trip are no longer there.  We spoke with our new friend, Pete, in Atlantic Highlands/Sandy Hook, NJ to see how things fared there, and he told us that the marinas were destroyed, everything, no docks, nothing left.  Most of the boats that were on jack stands were blown over each other and stacked like match sticks.  The water rose up the hill and into town. When we last spoke with Pete, he was without power.  Similar stories about marinas we stayed on the Hudson River.  Atlantic City, and Cape May NJ, were other ports in which we sought refuge on the Atlantic Ocean, were destroyed also.  The famous Atlantic City Boardwalk that we spent time walking - gone.
We departed Norfolk Thursday late morning with fellow sailors Ladd and Denise Caine on S/V "Blue" (it's a white boat named Blue").  It was just 3 hours, 12 nm with 2 bridges to open and one lock to our destination Atlantic Yacht Basin.  We are now working our way down the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (AICW).  Unfortunately the cold front is with us.  We have been chilly at night even with our heat on.  The whole east coast all the way to Florida, has a "chilly" forecast for quite awhile. A fellow sailor had ICE in his dinghy this morning!  As we move along, we will need to be anchoring  more frequently.  The Captain and Crew had a discussion on how we were going to cope with the cold and lack of power while at anchor.  Not too surprisingly, we came to the same conclusion and solution.  It took Suzanne less than 5 minutes to have this problem solved!  She found a Honda generator dealer (Land & Coates Outdoor Power Equipment), 10 minutes from our boat, with pick up and delivery.  Nothing like a motivated woman.  Craig, the service manager, and Chris, the store manager were very helpful getting us all set a up and educated on using the generator. He also helped us hook it up, and brought us to and from the boat. We are now more ready for the cold weather, and living on the "hook" without too much discomfort. We never thought that we would need to do this, but it is a matter of  morale, comfort, and survival!  We are in Great Bridge, Virginia. The Battle of Great Bridge was fought here on December 9, 1775, early in the American Revolutionary War, where upon the British were driven away, never to occupy the Colony of Virginia again.

"Sacrifices are required for the privilege of floating around free."

Ross Norgrove

Waiting for aircraft carrier to clear Elizabeth River before departing Norfolk

The migration south, waiting our turn to go under the bridge, Ladd and Denise's "white boat named Blue"  last boat in the photo

Craig, Honda Dealer Service Manager, getting us set up