Working our Way to Delaware Bay

September 26 - 28, 2012 Wednesday - Saturday

Wednesday was a day of rest and wait.  The wind and waves were outrageous on the Atlantic.  Tuesday night survivors stayed put.  Most of the sailors were "aching".  We watched a sailboat  struggling to come in the Absecon Inlet Wednesday afternoon, their hull would disappear in the waves.  They tied up on our dock.  Terry encountered the captain of this sailboat in the restroom.  He was waiting for his laundry to finish, lying down on the shower bench, moaning.  It was hard work for all of us - no matter what the age.
The author here has been corrected by many other sailors on our Tuesday night experience.  Apparently we were in 6-8 foot waves Tuesday night, not the 4-5 foot waves we reported in our previous blog.  The dark hid the demons, Suzanne was glad she did not know any better.
Wednesday we took a shuttle to the famous Atlantic City "boardwalk" with friends Ron and Jane Campbell, to say we walked it, checked out the inside of a few casinos (no gambling) and went back to our boats.  We met Ron and Jane back in Atlantic Highlands/Sandy Hook, NJ.  They have become our "weather" buddies for trip planning, sharing weather reports and weather sites.  Ron and Jane are traveling on a Hatteras 36 - so are always ahead of us.  
We left Atlantic City on Thursday after a storm went through in the morning.  The storm left us with a favorable wind and the Ocean was calm.  We had to go,  it was just 30 nm to Cape May.  It was a blissful transit with a visit from dophins in the earlier part of the day.  Thursday night we had dinner with Ron and Jane at the "Lobster House".  We sadly departed ways as they will be moving ahead much faster.
Our next goal was to get off the Delaware Bay as quickly as possible.  To transit the "Bay" we had to take into account many variables to successfully complete it...no North wind component, flood tides and current, moon affect on the tides. The Delaware Bay has a river running down the middle to the Atlantic.  It is a "natural" shipping channel.  The current exceeds 4 kts, "Chasseur" travels at 5 kts.  We had to study for and wait for the most favorable conditions.  The prize is the C&D Canal (Chesapeake & Delaware), but we need to get there at about flood tide to maximize our travel.  There is a lot planning and actual work for this transit.
Experienced mariners gave us advise to stay as far outside the Delaware Bay's channel that our depth sounder would allow and where we could still avoid crab pots.  This would minimize the river's current against us.  This worked well for us.  We sailed a good part of Friday with a light wind coming from the south and waves 1 foot.  We stopped in Cohansey River, a winding and deep river, for the night.
Saturday morning Terry woke Suzanne with "we're shoving off, make ready for sail!".  We departed against the river's tide and entered the Delaware Bay with a northwest wind.  We used the tide to help us, but we would have to pound through the waves until the tide turned.  When the tide started to turn the waves did come down quite a bit.  It's a "slippery" science out there! (ha ha).  We had lots of company on this transit.  Several sailboats had the same idea.  The Annapolis Boat Show is next week and everyone is anxious to get there.
We stopped inside the C&D Canal at Summit North Marina for diesel and decided to stay.  In time for cable TV coverage of MSU vs Ohio State, Terry relaxed with a beer in hand to catch up with his alma mater's football.  GO GREEN!

We have now completed 1606 nautical miles.
We have been underway for 3 months. 

"The sail, the play of its pulse so like our own lives: so thin and yet so full of life, so noiseless when it labors hardest, so noisy and impatient when least effective."

Henry David Thoreau

Trump Taj Mahal Casino

Terry, Ron and Jane walking Atlantic City "Boardwalk"

Inside Casino

Leaving Atlantic City, calm Atlantic Ocean

Fishing and shrimping boats of Cape May, NJ

Houses in the marina basin, Cape May, NJ

Cohansey River

Salty marsh banks along the Cohansey River

Old wood schooner on Cohansey River

war

Atlantic Ocean: Beauty and the Beast

September 24-25, 2012 Monday- Tuesday

It is every sailor's story.  We had a weather forecast with favorable winds, low seas, everything is right to set sail.  Terry calculated time, speed and distance, repeatedly.  This transit was to be our biggest challenge of the trip thus far, sailing down the Jersey Shore on the Atlantic Ocean for a 24 hour passage to Cape May, New Jersey.  Even for Terry, who has been sailing since he was a young child, this was exciting.
The forecast for Monday could not have been better; West wind 10-15 kts, 2-3 foot waves with a 9-10 second period, clear skies, 3/4 bright moon for the night.  We even had a plan B.  If things changed, we could duck into Atlantic City.  Tuesday's forecast was calling for Southwest winds late in the day up to 20 kts. At 5kts speed, and 120nm, we could make Cape May in less than 24 hours.
Wise sailors do not make unfamiliar ports at night.  Another time, speed, distance calculation had us leaving Sandy Hook, NJ late morning/early afternoon.  This would have us at Atlantic City's Absecon Inlet just before dawn if we needed to stop there.  If we could continue down the coast we could make Cape May Tuesday afternoon.  What could go wrong?
We cleared Sandy Hook at about 1330 hours and we were then sailing on the Atlantic Ocean.  Everything was perfect.  We were sailing, and "Chasseur" was in heaven on a beam reach at 5.5 - 6.5 kts., with an off shore breeze.  We had to layer up for temperature in the the high 60's.  This would be a cold night when the sun went to sleep.  The hours ticked on with a lunch and dinner underway, not too much excitement.  Sunset was upon us and it was beautiful.  Then over the radio there was a sailors exchange, buddy boats, talking about whales on their starboard, jumping 15 feet out of the water, their position only a few miles ahead of us.  We turned our heads and looked at each other with that disbelief look.  We expected dolphins, but not whales.  The Coast Guard quickly called in over the exchange and requested a lot of information, position, type of whales, "did they appear to be injured or in distress?".  The sailors could not accurately identify the type of whales and said they appeared healthy and happy.  Soon after the Coast Guard announced over the VHF radio a notification to all mariners in the area of the whale pod position and to avoid this endangered species.  It was just nightfall now and we were just a few miles from the whales last sighted position.  Novice ocean going sailors, we looked again at each other with wide eyes..."how do you avoid whales in the dark?"  We never did see the whales and there were no "bumps" in the night.
We had a beautiful sky Monday night, the sunset seemed to linger forever, the moon rose and glistened on the water, the stars were bright, and we were still sailing, a sailor's dream!
Around midnight, Terry noticed a slight change in wind direction and trimmed the sails accordingly.  That southerly component that was forecasted for late Tuesday was upon us.  To make this long story shorter....our sailor's dream soon had changed.  We now had a SW wind that just continued to build.  We had wind speeds 17-20 kts with even higher gusts, waves building to 4-5 feet, ON THE NOSE!!!  We motorsailed on a reefed main in these conditions through the night.
We could see Atlantic City for miles....the city lights and hotel marques were our target.  We made Atlantic City just before dawn and sat outside the inlet waiting for daylight to make port.  We certainly could not make Cape May in these conditions!
It was funny to see so many sailboats all coming into the Absecon Inlet so early in the morning.   We knew of one other sailor in our situation over the radio last night, but it looked like we were not as alone "out there" as we thought.  We watched large motor yachts trying to leave Atlantic City as we were coming in, then upon testing the waters, turning right around to come back!
We took a slip at Farley State Marina, which is attached to Golden Nugget Casino and who also manages the marina.  We went to the Casino for breakfast (not our style), licked our wounds and rested our aching muscles.  We collapsed back at the boat shortly after for sleep.

Dedicated to the Captain:

"Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm"

Publilius Syrus

Clearing "Sandy Hook, NJ", Atlantic ahead of us

Sunset at Sea

Night sky out at sea

Moon rise on the water

Atlantic City lights

Atlantic City at daybreak

More Atlantic Highlands

September 20 -23, 2012 Thursday - Sunday

The weather reports had us staying in Atlantic Highlands through the weekend.  Another storm and cold front came through Saturday.  Wind direction has not been cooperative.
Thursday we hooked up with Pete, S/V "Lithium" again.  We all had "time" on our hands.  Peter, born and raised in Atlantic Highlands, offered a personalized tour of his beloved home town.  He took us to places we would never have seen without "wheels", and a guide for that matter.  We drove up to the top of the "Highlands", 200 feet above sea level, this is the highest land on the East Coast.  We went to "Twin Lights", dual lighthouse beacons, erected in 1862.  The south tower is square, while the north tower is octagonal.  They stand 64 feet high and are 320 feet apart, with a fortress-like structure between them.  We could only photo one tower because of the sun.  "Twin Lights" was the first lighthouse to use the Fresnel lens.  Fresnel lenses resemble glass beehives and consisted of a series of prisms that surrounded a central light source.  With these lenses "Twin Lights" became the best coastal light in America.  In 1898 an enormous electric - arc bivalve lens, measuring 9 feet in diameter, replaced the beehive - type light.  This new lens was illuminated by an electric generator.  It was one of the brightest navigational lights ever used in the U.S.
We visited Atlantic Highlands and surrounding areas memorial for their victims of 9/11.  It was a giant eagle on top of granite, his claws holding a piece of the "Twin Towers".  Pete knew several New Jersey victims that perished.
We had one more stop before lunch, that being Pete's house (he built himself).  He was anxious to show us works of his new vocation.  Pete now retired,  his wife LuAnn gave him a watercolor set for Christmas and told him to take lessons.  After only 10 months his work is professional and selling.  We were truly impressed, he is sure to be famous one day!
We "hung" around on the mooring for the weekend, going to shore for walks, showers, groceries and most importantly to discuss weather with other sailors.  We think there were about 25-30 of us waiting to depart.  Monday is a weather window so it should be very exciting to see everyone setting sail.
Our plan is to leave Atlantic Highlands late Monday morning.  This will get us to Atlantic City at dawn Tuesday, with  the option of "ducking" in there if necessary.  If all goes well; weather, wind, and waves we will keep going to Cape May, NJ, with an ETA of Tuesday afternoon.

Scenes from Atlantic Highlands

"Sandy Hook",  spit of land between us and the Atlantic Ocean

Atlantic Ocean in the distance

North tower of "Twin Lights"

Fresnel lens now on display

9/11 Memorial, Twin Towers, piece of Twin Towers behind the eagle in his claw

Pete with one of his recent paintings, he's going to need a studio

This is a phone tower made to blend in with the landscape

Dark and Stormy Night

September 18 - 19, 2012 Tuesday - Wednesday

Atlantic Highlands is a very protected harbor, especially protected from southerly winds.  Today a cold front from the west collided with a tropical storm moving north along the entire eastern part of the country...very nasty.  We had a tornado watch and experienced 45 mph wind gusts for most of the day.  "Chasseur" moved all over on her mooring.  The "Highlands" to the south of us helped protect us but it was still a little uncomfortable.  The noise from wind sounded like a freight train going past us.
The locals suggested we indulge in the favored drink along the east coast called "Dark and Stormy".  It was too early to have a drink, so a fellow sailor took us up to the liquor store to buy the necessary ingredients for our happy hour in the afternoon.  Here is the recipe for anyone that is interested:
2 oz Gosling Rum, 3 oz ginger beer (this is not beer, it is a "soda" as they say in the east), and a wedge of lime (optional), over ice.
As the night progressed, the storm increased in intensity with torrential rain ;and wind gusts up to 60 mph.  Terry loves storms.  Suzanne not so.  Sipping on her "Dark and Stormy" made the storm more tolerable.
We survived the storm.  All up the East Coast people on shore had a more difficult time with flooding, power failures, and downed trees. Up to 3 inches of rain was reported and tens of thousands of people without power.
Wednesday we were still waiting for a weather window.  The time at the Highlands provided some rest and relaxation.  When we go to shore there are always "locals" at the dock to connect with and garner information.  Everyday we met with fellow sailor Pete Rathemacher.  He invited us to join he and his wife, LuAnn, to race on his 34 ft  J boat "Lithium".  Before Suzanne agreed to the invitation she asked  Pete for reassurance that his boat's name did not have anything to do with medication he took.  It was a beautiful night for a race and it was not without excitement.  Things got "interesting" out there with a couple of very close calls.  That was the first time Suzanne has ever come that close to a boat collision!  The Atlantic Highland Yacht Club is on the second floor of a reception center.  It looks out over the Raitan Bay with a beautiful view of the NYC skyline. We ended the evening with another weather update which looked only partially promising for a departure Thursday.

"Nature's instructions are always slow, those of men are generally premature."

Rousseau

"Dark and Stormy" ingredients

Preparing for race to start

Pete and LuAnn sizing up the competition

Race night in Atlantic Highlands

Ballast

Wing and Wing

Night sky over the "Highlands"

Waiting for Weather Window

September 16, 2012 Sunday ......

We were a little sad to be leaving NYC, as we had so much fun there, but it was time for the journey to continue. We crossed Lower and Raritan Bays to Atlantic Highlands, NJ.  We took a mooring ball at Atlantic Highlands Yacht Club inside Sandy Hook, NJ.  Here we will stay, awaiting a big weather system, complete with Gale Force winds, along with many other cruisers. All of us will then depart when we have a perfect 24hr. weather window to go "outside" down the Jersey shore. This will be a 120nm transit on the Atlantic Ocean, down to the bottom of New Jersey, with the destination of Cape May, NJ.  Being the "powder puff" cruisers that we are, we really DO mean "perfect weather".  That means we may be waiting here awhile!

"Adapt the pace of nature; her secret is patience."

Ralph Waldo Emerson

In our boat wake :( :(

Leaving her behind.........

Atlantic Highlands mooring field

More NYC

September 15 - 16, 2012  Friday and Saturday

Suzanne had never seen the Statue of Liberty, so this was on our list of things to do in NYC.  The sky was clear and blue and Lady Liberty was just as beautiful as she could be.  We made a stop to Ellis Island, then ferried back to Manhattan.  We visited the Wall Street "Charging Bull".  People posed with his "underside" and the brass in "that" area was bright and shiny from being touched so much.  We asked a police officer for a lunch recommendation and he directed us to the Fraunce Tavern in lower Manhattan, a short walk.  After British troops evacuated New York this tavern hosted an elaborate dinner for U.S. Gen. George Washington where he bade farewell to his officers of the Continental Army.  The tavern also houses a museum that we visited after lunch.
We stayed another day (Saturday) at Liberty Landing because the wind was gusting 25 kts.  We ferried over to Manhattan again to take in a few more sites and lunch on the waterfront.
Suzanne wanted to see the Federal Reserve Bank.  This building houses tens of billions of dollars worth of gold bars, 5 stories below ground, behind a 90 ton steel door.  This is a quarter of the worlds gold buillon - more than Fort Knox.

We visited St. Paul's Chapel, built in the 1760's, a pre-revolutionary church.  George Washington walked to this church from Federal Hall to attend a service of thanksgiving following his first inauguration.  St. Paul's also served as a resting post for the 9/11 fireman and volunteers during that horrific event.
Saturday's walk through Manhattan included the "Occupy Wall Street" protestors.  Once again the NYPD were everywhere.  They were carrying black bags.  Suzanne stopped a couple of the officers and asked what they had in the bags, answer: helmets. We had many interactions with the police every time we visited the city.  They were always helpful, pleasant and informative, sometimes they were just plain fun.
New York is a beautiful state and so are the people. We cannot possibly include all that we have experienced in our blog.  Our time in NYC was surrounded by many news events, 9/11 memorial, stabbings in the subway, rape of a 73 year old in Central Park (in broad daylight), Protesters of the "Occupy Wall Street" anniversary, even Lady Liberty's 125 year anniversary.  We would say we really experienced a lot of what's good and bad in New York and New York City.  In spite of it all and because of it all....We loved New York.

Happy tourist

Ellis Island

Ellis Island

Wall Street "Charging Bull"

"Fake"

Fraunce's Tavern

New York Stock Exchange

Front entrance to the Federal Reserve Bank

St. Paul's Chapel  1760's

St. Paul's Chapel with Twin Tower replacement under construction in background

Resting on granite benches after 5 days of  sightseeing!!!!