Oswego Canal to Sylvan Beach, New York

August 21-22, 2012 Tuesday - Wednesday

With her mast down "Chasseur" began her journey toward the Erie Canal.  We entered the Oswego channel after 1008 nautical miles under our keel, leaving behind our 4th Great Lake, Lake Ontario.  Terry was a little sad to be leaving his beloved Great Lakes.  We had to complete the 7 locks of the Oswego Canal.  This set of locks took us "up" to Oneida Lake.  The Oswego River is one of only a few rivers that flows North in the United States.   Going "up" in a lock is a little more tricky than going "down" as we previously did in the Welland Canal.  There is more turbulence making boat handling more difficult.  The Oswego Canal  walls and the ropes hanging for you to hold on to are slimy.  "Chasseur's" freshness from her morning bath was short lived.   There is no help in these canals.  We experienced canal lines that were too short, and distanced too far apart where upon one of us could not reach even with our boat hooks.  When we learned that we could use recessed cables or ladders we just grabbed whatever was easiest.
We arrived in Phoenix, New York just after we finished the last Oswego lock.  Waiting there for us was Jon and Arline Libby from Fair Port Marina with pizza and beer!  What a welcomed sight! Shortly after, the crew from "Eastbound n Down" arrived and joined us for a canal side dinner.
From Phoenix we began our trek through the Oswego River.  We made a stop in Brewerton, New York for fuel and a quick shop at the "Ess-Kay" marina and part store.  If  you need "anything"  Kim the owner will find it and ship it to you "anywhere".  She is searching for a new jib furling fair lead block for us, as we continue through.
From Brewerton we entered Oneida Lake.  There are so many horror stories about this lake.  It is very shallow and has reputation of "piping up".  For us, she was a sheet of glass the whole way across.   We
crossed the lake in no time.
We arrived at Sylvan Beach and tied up on the free dock wall.  The Erie Canal begins here.
We spent the afternoon and evening walking and taking photos for Suzanne's father who enjoyed his summers here as a child.  The photos in this blog are for you DAD...hope they bring back many fond memories.  The amusement park here is from the 1800's.  Suzanne rode the original merry-go-round from 1896.
We had the Buffalo Wings recommended to us by fellow sailors Marguerite and Jon Edwards (new friends from Utica).  We met Marguerite's sister, Lina, who waited on us on the patio of the restaurant.  We enjoyed visiting with her, even though the visits were in bits and pieces. Lina was quite busy! Tomorrow we will meet Marageurite and Jon in Utica.

There are very few marinas on the Canal.  Usually, we tie up at free docks along the edge of the Canal.  There are no showers at these free docks, but we can save money not paying for slips.  We have mastered the art of "sponge bath".

"Living successfully is a matter of forming the right habits."

Earl Nightingale

Last Great Lake (Ontario) behind us :(

Oswego Channel Lighthouse

Approaching Oswego 

Approaching Oswego Canal lock

Hawk that kept us company along the Oneida River,  flying tree limb to tree limb

Photos for Dad........

Catskills Mountains from Oneida Lake

Verona Beach Lighthouse as we entered Erie Canal from Oneida Lake (opposite Sylvan Beach) 

Sylvan Beach

Sylvan Beach Amusement Park  (1800's)

Carello's Arcade inside the Amusement Park

1896 Carousel (original)

Sunset on Oneida Lake from Sylvan Beach

Hot wings, cold beer at "Yesterday's Royal"

Fair Haven, N.Y. Part II, "Mast-ectomy"

August 19 - 20, 2012 Sunday  - Monday

While Suzanne finished cleaning up the water mishap, Terry had been busy preparing "Chasseur" for her  "Mast-ectomy".  We had been too busy since we arrived in Fair Haven to do much of anything that was fun or interesting.  This  is a peaceful, beautiful port.  Across the channel is the Fair Haven State Park.  Everyone here at the Fair Port Marina is very friendly.  We were docked next to a couple that
 befriended us over the weekend and the fun finally began.  There was an instant connection with Jon and Marguerite Edwards.  They are planning the trip to the Bahamas next year on their sailboat.  As we talked, we learned that they live in Utica, N.Y., one of our planned stops on the Erie Canal.  Another small world experience...Suzanne's father grew up in Utica.  We planned a dingy flotilla to the State Park Sunday afternoon.  Jon and Marguerite hiked us up the cliff and paths and a walk along the shore of Lake Ontario.  Fair Haven is a beautiful State Park.  We have a different perspective and appreciation for the state of New York.  We planned to meet again when we make port in Utica this coming week.
Sunday evening, we had another terrific cruiser's briefing hosted by expert sailors, Jon and Arline Libby at their place.  They shared photos and cruising info for a Bahamas Bound trip. They have really taken us under their wing, with far more cruising help and advice than would ever be expected. We wish we could bring them along with us, but we know we will see them again!
 Monday was non-stop!!  Most of the day involved removing the mast and preparing it for shipping.  Jon Libby and friend Skyler were great - very efficient, professional and helpful.  We highly recommend this crew at Fair Port Marina!  It is a small, intimate, operation but they do "IT" right!
www.fairpointmarina.com

"As I grow older, I pay less attention to what men say.  I just watch what they do."  Andrew Carnegie

Fair Haven  Beauty

Jon and Marguerite Edwards, Hiking up the Cliff

Scene on our hike

Working our way to the Cliffs

Dingy Buddies

Terry on a Conch Shell


Scenes from a "Mast-ectomy" 

Jon Libby climbing the mast

Jon and Arline Libby, Fair Port Marina

Fair Haven, New York Part 1

August 15-17, 2012 Wednesday - Friday

Fellow cruisers, Tom and Laura on S/V "Cool Hand"  were days ahead of us.  They told us Rochester, N.Y. was not a great stop.  The weather forecast was looking favorable for the next day and a half.  If we stopped in Rochester, we would be held up with weather for several days.  We decided to do something we rarely do (actually Suzanne never had), an all day and night run.  It would be a 22 hour, 115 nm transit of the south shore of Lake Ontario to Fair Haven, N.Y.  We are having our mast taken down at Fair Point Marina in Fair Haven, for our Erie Canal trip.  From here our mast will be shipped to Catskill, N. Y. where we finish the Canal.
We departed Niagara on the Lake at 1000 hrs after checking in with customs at Youngstown, N.Y.  This would put us at the Fair Haven outer channel at 0700 -0800 hours the next morning (Thursday).  We decided upon 2 hour watches.
Suzanne popped her head through the companionway at 2230 for her watch.  The city lights of Rochester were on our starboard.  The stars were vibrantly twinkling, the Big Dipper and Milky Way were prominent, and even a couple of meteors.  As we left Rochester in our wake, things became dark, very dark.  There were no longer cities sprinkling the coast line.  There were no harbors of refuge.  The lake was calm and quiet.  We were very alone.  Terry was able to sleep for one hour while Suzanne was starting to feel apprehensive in the increasing darkness, lions and tigers, and bears, oh my!  The depth sounder had over 400 feet registering.  Suddenly it went "stupid", flashing 50 feet, then 30, then 20.  Terry woke to Suzanne's call.  Half asleep and waking up, Terry decided that the depth sounder just could not read the depth of Lake Ontario.  The chart plotter said we were in over 600 feet of water.  As the night progressed the wind came up a bit and we experienced rollers, creating an uncomfortable sea motion.  Terry decided to finish the night at the helm and navigate closer to shore to attempt a calmer ride.  It was a restless, uncomfortable, yet beautiful night, never having seen a planet shining on the surface of the water before.
Tom from "Cool Hand" was up early radioing "Chasseur" at 0600 hrs. for her status and position. We were just outside the Fair Haven Channel by 0700 hrs.  Suzanne went below to make Terry some coffee.  Squish, Squish, Squish under her feet in the galley.  This was not good!  A look in the bilge and there was lots of water and it was very warm....Hmmmm, a look under the sink and an elbow fitting was leaking and something spraying in the back on the side of the cabinet frame of the sink, the water heater pressure valve. Terry turned off the water.  Who forgot to turn off the water pressure and heater for our 22 hour motor run?  We won't do that again.  20 + gallons out of the water tank was now in the bilge. Thankfully, the bilge pump was working.  Just a little something to do when we got the boat tied up.
Standing on the breakwall was Laura snapping pictures.  We were so tired.  Tom met us at the dock and helped us tie up.  Next thing we knew Laura had breakfast cooking up at the marina clubhouse.  We were so grateful.  You meet the nicest people on the high seas!!
After breakfast brought the task of the water clean up, no sleep for us.  We were lucky to have a handy marina manager, John Libby who pulled a "MacGyver" fix in no time.
John and Arlene Libby are fellow cruisers who have done this same trip, and now live on their boat in the Bahamas in the winter.  They were eager to share much information with us and Tom and Laura.  We all met at the marina clubhouse in the evening.  They were full of so much valuable information.  We took copious notes.
Friday afternoon Arlene took us into Oswego for provisioning.  We are now well stocked for the Erie Canal.  She drove us down to the Oswego Canal to show us where we will be starting "up" as we begin the canal.
We are very busy preparing "Chasseur" for the Erie Canal trip.....stay tuned.

"Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently."

Henry Ford

Checking in with U. S. Customs in Youngstown

Youngstown US sailing club preparing  to battle with the Niagara club CAN

Last of many, many buckets

Putting back the last cabin sole board (post boat flood)

John and Arlene Libby, marina managers and fellow cruisers (first 2 on right), Tom and Laura  behind Terry

These are lake effect clouds....sign of season to come...aghhhhhh

Niagara on the Lake and Niagara Falls

August 12 - 14, 2012 Sunday to Tuesday

Niagara on the Lake is a busy destination port.  We were happy they found room for us Sunday.  Rain showers were predicted, but Sunday morning was so pleasant we were seduced into shoving off.  Niagara is only 16 nm from Port Dalhousie.  Once underway, we could see the dark clouds behind us fast approaching.  The Coast Guard announced a danger of water spouts on Lake Ontario.  The threat however, stayed behind us the whole way, and then moved inland.
The waves on Lake Ontario had been increasing to 3 feet.   The  Niagara River, our destination, has a current of over 4kts.  Just outside the mouth of the river, the seas stacked up a bit and became confused.   This was caused by the onshore North wind blowing directly against the southbound current of the mighty Niagara. Then suddenly, inside the river's mouth, the seas just flattened...eerily. We tried to photograph this phenomenon but waves never photograph what you are seeing. Fort Niagara (U.S.) was on our port as we entered the river.
Niagara on the Lake Sailing Club welcomed us heartily.  This is a "sailing" club with very few motor boats.  They are dedicated to promoting the sport of sailing and have a thriving youth sailing school and camp.   This sailing club was created by it's first Commodore, George Hinterholler, designer of the famous Nonsuch sailboats.
We rushed to tie up and shower to attend our first cultural event in a long time. Niagara on the Lake is home to one of the world's finest theater companies. The Shaw Festival is celebrated for its exhilarating productions of plays by Bernard Shaw, his contemporaries and contemporary plays about his life and times.  We wanted to see the "The Millionairess" by Shaw, so we called for, and obtained what turned out to be the last 2 tickets.  We had to sit apart, but the play was well worth it.  The production was excellent.
The town of Niagara on the Lake is absolutely beautiful.  The flowers that don the streets are gorgeous. Shopping here however, is quite pricey.  Main (Queen) Street was wall to wall people from everywhere.  There were so many different languages being spoken, we were not sure that we were actually in an English speaking country.
The crew took a taxi ride to see the Niagara Falls.  We both reminisced, having fond childhood memories of visiting here.  We had lunch with a spectacular view of the Falls.

"The fundamentals of boat and sail handling are easier to describe than accomplish.  The very  best way to learn and master then is to go out and practice them."  John Rousmaniere

Storms following us all the way

Niagara River meets Lake Ontario

Fort Niagara on our port

Fort Niagara

A real "SAILING" club (N.O.L.S.C.)

Sailboats, Sailboats, Sailboats, we are comfortable here

Sailing school

Main Street, Niagara on the Lakes

Court House Theater, Shaw Festival

"Maid of the Mist"

Port Dalhousie

August 10 - 12, 2012 Friday - Sunday Morning

Everyone from the Welland Canal journey awoke between 0830-0900 hrs.  It was time to say our good byes as each boat went in different directions.  It was our wish to go to Niagara on the Lake the morning after the Welland Canal, but unfortunately  they were filled for the weekend.  St. Catherine's just outside the Canal channel was too shallow for "Chasseur".  Plan C put us in the opposite direction, taking us west instead of east on Lake Ontario.  We docked at the Port Dalhousie Yacht Club.
From 1829 to 1932, Port Dalhousie was the entrance to the first 3 Welland Canals.  There are remnants of the Canal just up the river from where we tied up. In 1932 the fourth Welland Canal opened with a new entrance 3 miles east at Port Weller, where we finished our Canal trip.  This began the transformation of Port Dalhousie as a harbor of recreation.
Still on our adrenalin high from the Canal we cleaned "Chasseur" of  canal grit, did a laundry and caught up on the blog.  We did not feel our exhaustion until Saturday.  Suzanne confessed to some muscle aches and decided to examine the inside of her eyelids.
The weather report included high wind warnings and waves up to 5 feet for the next 2 days.  This provided us the rest we needed and the time to research and plan our Lake Ontario trek.
We could easily see Toronto from the yacht club, just  28nm North across Lake Ontario.  Photos are difficult to take with the clouds.  Fellow sailor, Bent Jorgensen tied up in front of us and was able to get a good photo of Toronto and gave it to us for our blog.  He and his wife, Annette are Danish and live in Toronto. At one point, Terry called Sister Em ( Brother Tom's Danish wife), handed the phone to Annette, and they conversed in the home tongues for awhile.
Terry spent time Saturday calling different ports and marinas on Lake Ontario.  Water levels are down and many port entrances are too shallow.  Niagara on the Lake would be able to take us Sunday afternoon.  It looks like we will have to take a long 80nm run to Rochester, New York this week.  Niagara will take a few hours off the leg.
We awoke Sunday to a beautiful day, and went for a walk through town.   We walked over the "old" Welland Canal entrances.  Above the damn was a rowing course and rowers were going up and down the lanes.  This is an Olympic training area for rowing.
Departed Dalhousie for Niagara on the Lake after noon.

"The seasoned sailor stays on the same tack as long as it appears advantageous, and then at the appropriate moment, pushes the tiller toward the sail and deftly changes directions."

Richard Bode

One of Port Dalhousie Lighthouses

Outer channel lighthouse

More "old " Canal remnants

Rowing course above the damn

We didn't go here

Toronto across the lake